South Guinea
All counters went up, serious things started!
Atmosphere was bit strange near Macenta, after being arrested by the police, thinking I was a spy… Also, half the population is walking around with some 25 inches long knives (normally to cut bamboo trees), so I can imagine how bloody had been the war when rebels tried to overtake the power in 2002, killing more than 10 000 people. Since this time, authorities are a bit stressed, and one can see them every 100 meters in town. Anyway, Guineans are glad to see me always welcome me.
At the police station:
A soldier just passed on his bike, when I took a picture, didn’t see him coming…
“Hey, you! What are you doing?!! Follow me to the police station!”
I show my papers to the main officers, plus my fake student card.
“M. Colin, you’ve pictured a strategic place, and you’ve reach the town clandestinely. So we have enough reasons to think that you’re a spy for the French government.
-??? What??? I’m just a tourist!
-No. And you hide a microphone.
-I don’t have any!
-You’re a liar, and a spy!
-of course not! I’m a student!
-We’ll worry you M. Colin… and we will have to keep the camera.”
30 minutes later, after lots of intimidations, they would eventually let me go, not even asking for a bribe, and gave me my camera back!
I had to bribe a custom officer when entering in , but cheap price, only 1,5 euros, to get a stamp for the bike.
First fall, on a bad road of course, but no hurt and the bike is still ok. Road are terrible here sometimes, and hopefully it’s the dry season! The roads go through jungle and mountains, up and down, and up again! Sometimes, that’s so steep, that I have to push the bike! No power my friend!
2 Africans speaking about France :
“In , you have to clean yours ears very well if you want to understand what they say… Oh yeah, they don’t have that big voice like us!
Bush taxis in Guinea:
-On the roof, the ideal load is about twice the height of the car itself.
-inside (plus on the roof and in the boot), load passengers until the exhaust touch the ground (record: 17 people in a five seats car!)
I’m now at the gate of the Fouta Djalon, an area of green rolling hills with 1000 meters peaks. Then behind will comes .
26 March 2005
The road in south Guinea.
Fouta Djalon
I got a few days rest in Doucki in deep Fouta Djalon, after all theses long rides. I was in a nice hut’s guest house, going around for hikes in the nature with Hassan, my guide. Country side is breathtaking in this area.
Unfortunately, I’ haven’t experienced as much hospitality in than in , and all theses nights in hotels got me a bit depressed! Overall, the country lacks of many supplies like water, petrol, electricity, and the road network can sometimes be in a terrible state. There is virtually no tourist, but few volunteers, and travelling there gets quiet rough. For sure, I’ve missed many things.
I had a stop in Labé, time to get a new rear tyre (with bigger designs), cooking stall and food supplies as I bought a tent a few days ago.
Heading towards Sénégal, there are 350Km of very rough pists according to most people I’ve met… I can now confirm that’s probably the worst I’ve seen up now. There’s a lot of vehicles broken along the road, and I‘ve felt down one more time. No harm but I had to get the pedal fixed by the mechanic… with a hammer! This road is full of holes, sand, washing board, and it must be really impassable during the rainy season!
I had my first night in the bushes, but camping is not my favourite, because not able to carry enough water … and food isn’t that good as I’m the cook! Hopefully, is very near now, and from there, I should be able to stay again in the villages.
I got through the border the 6th of April, without any problems, Senegalese customs were not even here, probably lunch break!
8 April 2005
Indiana Jone's World.
Douki's Grand Canyon.
